From the First Microscope to the Future of Skincare
Trevor Steyn’s Final Book Is Now Open for Pre-Order
For most of the last century, skincare has been built on a simple assumption. Skin is a surface to be cleaned, controlled and corrected, and the microbes living on it are something to be removed. Esse founder Trevor Steyn spent the second half of his career showing why that assumption has done skin more harm than good.
To mark the first anniversary of his passing, pre-orders* are now open for Skin as it should be: A Microbiome Guidebook, the last book Trevor completed.
Challenge the Convention
Trevor wrote the book to make microbiome science accessible and to challenge the thinking behind conventional skincare. By explaining complex research in clear language, he invites readers to rethink skin as a living ecosystem and to reconsider routines built around stripping, controlling, and correcting it.
In his preface, Trevor admits he fell into skincare mostly by mistake but describes himself as incredibly lucky to have been involved in the pursuit of perfect skin when the microbiome revolution started. In his words, “We’re only at the beginning of the journey.”
From the First Microscopes to the Future of Skincare
Across five chapters, Trevor traces the science of the skin microbiome from its very first glimpse, when in 1674, a Dutch draper named Antonie van Leeuwenhoek built lenses to count the threads in fabric and uncovered a hidden microscopic world instead. More than three centuries later, the Human Microbiome Project and modern metagenomic sequencing revealed that healthy skin hosts hundreds of microbial species, forming an ecosystem essential to barrier function and immune balance.
That discovery is why Trevor argues humans are better understood as ecosystems than as single organisms. He goes on to show how a century of harsh hygiene, antibiotics and strip-and-replace skincare has depleted the skin’s microbial partners, and why inflammatory conditions such as acne and atopic dermatitis continue to rise in industrialised societies.
The final chapters review the microbiome techniques now in use, from topical probiotics to microbiome transplants, and set out where skincare is heading. With practical tips, data visualisations and full scientific references, the guidebook is designed to be read and returned to.
The Thinking Behind Esse
The book also highlights the purpose behind Esse, which is to remake the skincare system by working with the skin’s natural biology rather than against it. It is the same thinking behind every Esse formulation, built on live probiotics, prebiotics and ecologically responsible actives that support the skin’s microbiome and barrier function.
It is that philosophy that Trevor distilled into the closing lines of the book. “Skin should be alive. Not stripped and sterile. Skin should be resilient. Not sensitive and reactive. Skin should be pure. Not poisoned by synthetics. Skin should be wild. Not domesticated and dependent.”
From Skin to Forest
One principle, that the more species an ecosystem holds, the more resilient it becomes, was core to Trevor’s thinking. He applied it to skin, and he cared about it just as much in the natural world. When asked what he most wanted to achieve in life, his answer was biodiversity.
As such, net proceeds from the book will support the Forest Restoration Initiative at Thula iNyoni in Richmond, KZN, South Africa. The region held a special place in Trevor’s heart as the place where he lived and raised his family for over 20 years.
“Trevor saw skin as an ecosystem, and he believed the same care should extend to the natural world,” says Bridget Schofield, Chief Executive Officer of Esse Skincare, who worked alongside Trevor for 18 years. “One of his pastimes was planting indigenous trees in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. Donating the net proceeds from his book to indigenous forest restoration felt like the most fitting way to honour him.”
Healing a Mistbelt Forest
Thula iNyoni began as a small, secluded birding cabin in the indigenous forest near Richmond. Led by local farmer Tyron Walsh, its Forest Restoration Initiative now works to heal that forest by clearing alien invasive species, planting indigenous trees specific to the Eastern Mistbelt Forest and conserving the wild spaces that remain.
The aim is to restore habitat for the forest’s birds, in the hope that endangered species such as the Cape Parrot, South Africa’s only endemic parrot, return. By inspiring other landowners to restore their own land, the project hopes to create ecological corridors that let birds and animals move freely between habitats.
“Over time, we realised that simply enjoying the forest was not enough,” says Tyron. “We wanted to play a part in restoring it, protecting the biodiversity it holds, and ensuring that it remains a living, thriving ecosystem for generations to come.”
The work extends beyond the trees and the birds. Thula iNyoni partners with the Siyabona Community Development Initiative to support locally driven projects in education, sustainable agriculture and environmental stewardship, including community gardens at a rural school and conservation projects that help local youth build skills and find meaningful work.
Find out more or pre-order*
Skin as it should be: A Microbiome Guidebook
For anyone who would like to give more, a donation of R150 plants an indigenous tree. Every donation goes directly to Thula iNyoni and helps plant indigenous trees, clear alien invasive species, support local communities and empower rural youth.
* Pre-ordering is a free registration, and everyone who registers will be notified once the publication date is confirmed in early 2027.